Having lived in Kolkata (erstwhile Calcutta) all through my childhood and adolescence, I often refer to myself as a Malayalee by birth and a Bengali at heart. That city, which is truly a melting pot of unique culinary styles, is also responsible for my foodie avatar! There is such a variety of tasty delicacies in that city, which I shall reserve for a dedicated post.
Bengali cuisine sits high up on my list of favourite cuisines that I’ve tried. Many years away from the city has only heightened my longing and fondness for its delightful fare. Any mention of a joint serving Bengali food makes me sit up, pay attention and ask for directions!
In Mumbai, so far, I've only heard of two places, popular enough to be widely recommended – Oh! Calcutta and Howrah. The former is on the expensive end of the ‘cuisine-price-index’ while the latter is perched comfortably on the reasonable end.
SD, a foodie friend and I decided to give Howrah a try on a hot Saturday afternoon. Only true-blue foodies could make the effort to travel all the way from Bandra to Crawford Market in sultry conditions for a taste of some awesome fare! Howrah is a collaboration between Retro Foods and Hotel New Bengal, purportedly Mumbai’s oldest Bengali hotel, and is located at Crawford Market with landmarks like the JJ School of Arts and Metro cinema nearby.
I had expected Howrah to be a typical run-down joint that served up authentic cuisine, untouched my modernization and glitz. Well, I discovered that it’s an establishment that’s chosen the Middle Path – just the right mix of heritage and an avant-garde approach. SD had been there before on several occasions but this was my first time and what I saw after climbing a short flight of stairs, impressed me. We walked out onto an outdoor setting very well sheltered from the sun, with numerous British-era ceiling fans airing the placing out. Patrons do have a choice of outdoor seating or air-conditioned environs. We chose the former.
One look at the names of the dishes listed in the menu brought back fond memories
of good ‘ol Kolkata. We began with drinks to cool off after the trip and placed orders for Musambi (sweet lime) juice (for SD) and Aam Porar Sherbet (a fantastic coolant – burnt green mango juice laced with roasted and ground coriander, cumin, black pepper, sugar & salt). I just couldn’t get my eyes off the menu – especially the seafood section. One has to first choose the type of fish and then choose the style of preparation. I liked the concept. With a choice of 8 types of fish and 12 styles of preparation the task was daunting. But then we finally settled for Rui Maach (a freshwater fish from the carp family) in Jhol style (light watery curry), Chingri Maach in Malai style (Shrimp in Coconut milk) and Lamb Kosha (semi-dry Bengali lamb).
Among the Indian breads available (Luchi, Paratha and Radhaballabi) we settled for Luchi (deep fried flatbread unique to Bengali and Oriya cuisine). As no Bengali meal would be complete without steamed rice, we called for a portion. The spread looked impressive but we didn’t waste any time admiring it and unleashed ourselves upon it immediately.
The Malai Chingri beat the other dishes hands down. Light, just the right texture and a fantastic after-taste when eaten with the Luchi. Was disappointed with the Lamb Kosha. Although the meat was tender it just wasn’t cooked right – very pedestrian. The Rui Maach also did not meet our expectations. Although the ‘jhol’ was quite delicious the fish pieces were tough – not fresh but the cold-storage variety! The desserts Rossogolla (cottage cheese balls in syrup) and Chenar Payesh (Cottage cheese in milk) made up for the disappointments in the main course, though. To elaborate on Bengali sweets I'll need an entirely new post!
In a restaurant like this one, which serves authentic regional fare I usually expect the waiters to converse in the regional language when prompted. Was a trifle disappointed on this front at Howrah. Maybe I’m being unreasonable. But that’s the essence of ‘experiential cuisine’.
Overall, a satisfying experience – a special mention goes out to the ambiance of the outdoor section.
Bengali cuisine sits high up on my list of favourite cuisines that I’ve tried. Many years away from the city has only heightened my longing and fondness for its delightful fare. Any mention of a joint serving Bengali food makes me sit up, pay attention and ask for directions!
In Mumbai, so far, I've only heard of two places, popular enough to be widely recommended – Oh! Calcutta and Howrah. The former is on the expensive end of the ‘cuisine-price-index’ while the latter is perched comfortably on the reasonable end.
SD, a foodie friend and I decided to give Howrah a try on a hot Saturday afternoon. Only true-blue foodies could make the effort to travel all the way from Bandra to Crawford Market in sultry conditions for a taste of some awesome fare! Howrah is a collaboration between Retro Foods and Hotel New Bengal, purportedly Mumbai’s oldest Bengali hotel, and is located at Crawford Market with landmarks like the JJ School of Arts and Metro cinema nearby.
I had expected Howrah to be a typical run-down joint that served up authentic cuisine, untouched my modernization and glitz. Well, I discovered that it’s an establishment that’s chosen the Middle Path – just the right mix of heritage and an avant-garde approach. SD had been there before on several occasions but this was my first time and what I saw after climbing a short flight of stairs, impressed me. We walked out onto an outdoor setting very well sheltered from the sun, with numerous British-era ceiling fans airing the placing out. Patrons do have a choice of outdoor seating or air-conditioned environs. We chose the former.One look at the names of the dishes listed in the menu brought back fond memories
of good ‘ol Kolkata. We began with drinks to cool off after the trip and placed orders for Musambi (sweet lime) juice (for SD) and Aam Porar Sherbet (a fantastic coolant – burnt green mango juice laced with roasted and ground coriander, cumin, black pepper, sugar & salt). I just couldn’t get my eyes off the menu – especially the seafood section. One has to first choose the type of fish and then choose the style of preparation. I liked the concept. With a choice of 8 types of fish and 12 styles of preparation the task was daunting. But then we finally settled for Rui Maach (a freshwater fish from the carp family) in Jhol style (light watery curry), Chingri Maach in Malai style (Shrimp in Coconut milk) and Lamb Kosha (semi-dry Bengali lamb).Among the Indian breads available (Luchi, Paratha and Radhaballabi) we settled for Luchi (deep fried flatbread unique to Bengali and Oriya cuisine). As no Bengali meal would be complete without steamed rice, we called for a portion. The spread looked impressive but we didn’t waste any time admiring it and unleashed ourselves upon it immediately.
The Malai Chingri beat the other dishes hands down. Light, just the right texture and a fantastic after-taste when eaten with the Luchi. Was disappointed with the Lamb Kosha. Although the meat was tender it just wasn’t cooked right – very pedestrian. The Rui Maach also did not meet our expectations. Although the ‘jhol’ was quite delicious the fish pieces were tough – not fresh but the cold-storage variety! The desserts Rossogolla (cottage cheese balls in syrup) and Chenar Payesh (Cottage cheese in milk) made up for the disappointments in the main course, though. To elaborate on Bengali sweets I'll need an entirely new post!In a restaurant like this one, which serves authentic regional fare I usually expect the waiters to converse in the regional language when prompted. Was a trifle disappointed on this front at Howrah. Maybe I’m being unreasonable. But that’s the essence of ‘experiential cuisine’.
Overall, a satisfying experience – a special mention goes out to the ambiance of the outdoor section.
Restaurant Class: Mid-range
ADDRESS:
Howrah Bengali Restaurant
Hotel New Bengal
Dr. D.N. Road, Crawford Market,
Mumbai - 400001
Tel: 022 2342 4693, 022 2340 1976, 022 3330 3131
Free delivery: Cuffe Parade to Mumbai Central / Byculla.
For delivery beyond Mumbai Central / Byculla, minimum value of order should be Rs. 1000/-
2 comments:
Here's a treat for all the Foodies!
Get hooked! Get Booked ...Fabulous place to satitiate your taste buds!
Our Ancestors Dit It???hmmmmmm...in a wild wild wayz....hunting in the jungles, killing the beasts, smearing their mouths with blood....Well I am sooo glad that I can Do It now with a Style...Thanks to Fine Dining and Civilisation...over the years!
Long live food creativity!
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