“This is Shinoy Mathew reporting from Dar es Salaam for CNN!”

It’s a brand new year and I’ve moved again. This time, to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. Africa has always fascinated me especially because I know so little about it. Now, here I am in the heart of East Africa to try and get a feel of this beautiful, largely neglected and grossly misunderstood continent.

2008, was a year in when my nomadic way of life reached new heights. The first half of the year saw me struggling through the daily rigour of life in Mumbai. Then it happened. I quit and set off to spend some quality time with my folks in the US of A. After 3 months there and loads of mum-made food later (oh and the Philly Cheesesteaks), I had to leave. Kerala in South India was my pit-stop before I scooted off to Kolkata, the city where I grew up, in the eastern part of India. I spent many an afternoon in Kolkata steeped in nostalgia, whiling away time in a manner only a true-blue Kolkattan could. Tea in earthen cups (bharer cha), street-side Chinese fare, egg rolls, mutton biryani, ‘phish-phrai’ and mishti doi are just a few of the mouthwatering fare that made my Kolkata experience extra special. Boy, what a year that was.

2009 looks promising. It sure has started in the most unexpected manner with my move to Dar. The possibilities seem endless. Africa here I come!

Cracker Barrel Old Country Store

In a recent episode of Everybody Loves Raymond I watched Ray Romano stare disdainfully at a sorry looking meatloaf which his wife, Debra, had lovingly cooked for dinner. He let out a deep sigh, indicative of the problems he’d face whether he’d eat it or not and grudgingly began his meal. That episode came rushing back as I glanced through the menu of Cracker Barrel and my eyes fell on an item there – Meatloaf Dinner. Although Ray’s expression had painted a not-so-appetizing picture of the meatloaf, I went ahead and ordered it.

A couple of friends (brother-sister duo J1 & J2) and I had decided to try out dinner at Cracker Barrel (Nr Neshaminy Mall, Philadelphia) that evening. J1 had been there once before for a quick bite during her lunch break and had found the place worth a second, more detailed, look.

Cracker Barrel is a chain of restaurants that serves traditional Southern comfort food across the United States. I must emphasize on the comfort food part – hearty meals in sizeable portions cooked just as they would be at homes in the countryside. Roast Beef, Grilled Sirloin Steak, Farm-raised Catfish Platter, Smoked Country Sausage, Hickory Smoked Pork Barbecue and Sugar Cured Ham with sides of Turnip Greens, Breaded Fried Okra, Fried Apples, Cole Slaw, Mashed potatoes form just a portion of the extensive menu. Wholesome, home style breakfast is served all day long – that’s a feature I appreciate. Sometimes you just feel like eating a luscious blueberry pancake in the middle of the day. With generous portions of Eggs cooked with Grits, Homemade buttermilk biscuits, Hash brown Casserole, Thick Sliced Bacon, Turkey Sausage Patties, Maple Pancakes, Sourdough Bread French Toast, etc, served all day long, there’s now a place to run to when the cravings take hold of you.

After taking our time with the menu (understandably so, considering the spread) we were ready to place our order, which was taken by Joy, a friendly waitress. J1, not one for too much experimenting, chose Chicken and Rice – Chicken Tenderloin simmered in mushroom gravy served atop a bed of seasoned rice. J2 went for Chicken Fried Chicken – chicken breast fillet fried to a golden brown and topped with Sawmill gravy. I stuck to my Meatloaf Dinner – a thick cut of their special recipe Meatloaf made with tomato onions and green peppers. With sides comprising of Mashed Potatoes, Country Green Beans, Sweet Whole Baby Carrots, Steak fries and corn muffins this meal was all set to be a winner. We opted for freshly brewed Iced Teas to drink rather than the regular soda.

I must make a special mention about the ambiance. Cracker Barrel, since its launch in 1969, has styled every restaurant to resemble the warm and friendly interiors of old country stores replete with old advertising signs, farm equipment, early kitchen appliances, old photos and more. Every Cracker Barrel restaurant has an attached retail store which stocks mainly nostalgic merchandise, collectibles, classic candies, and a lot of holiday-themed merchandise. To make the whole experience as authentic as possible there are rows of rocking chairs placed on the outer porch of the store for guests to enjoy before or after a meal.

Our meal was delectable and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. J2 just would not stop talking about how his choice of the Fried Chicken was the best decision he’d taken in months!!! As for my Meatloaf, it was cooked to perfection and was full of flavour . Debra could definitely take a few tips, for Ray’s sake.

While we finished of our dinner with dessert (Apple Pie and a Frozen Mug Sundae) I looked around me. The restaurant was packed with happy diners – young couples, old couples, large and small families, and their cheerful chatter signified one thing – the fare at Cracker Barrel had made their day. It had certainly made mine.

Restaurant Class: Economy
Website: www.crackerbarrel.com
Store Hours: Sunday To Thursday: 6am to 10pm. Friday & Saturday: 6am to 11pm

It's a Dog Eat Dog World!!!!!

I caught sight of it from a block away. Busy streets, slow moving traffic and sister in tow, were not obstacles that were going to keep me away from getting my teeth into a real .........hot dog. Right there in the most happening part of New York - Times Square. The quintessential NY Hot Dog!

Its a special feeling, may I add, to be munching down a scrumptious hot dog, slathered with grilled/sauteed onions and mustard. Firstly, for me, this is a NY icon - a la vada pav of the Big Apple. I kid you not when I make this comparison. Its the staple of any New Yorker worth his salt. I would not savour a dog (they don't say the whole name here) quite as much if I wasn't devouring it in the middle of NY.

Push-carts selling dogs are found on every street corner in and around Manhattan. They make a killing during busy periods (read all through the day - this is NY). Its easy on the pocket too. I bought mine for $1.30 and was worth every penny.

As I bit in through the mustard, onions, firm sausage with the perfect degree of 'snap' and soft bread, the rest of the city was a blur. I devoted all my energies to savouring this NY snack, oblivious to the disgusted look on my sister's face. She wasn't a big fan at all. But little did she know what she was missing out on. Yet another wonder of the gastronomic world which began as a quick snack for the working class to be had between breaks and then went on to become an integral part of that great city.

Apart from the push-carts, there are proper outlets dedicated to the hot dog. The most popular among these is Gray's Papaya. It sure was on my list of 'Must-Visit' places but I just couldn't get around to going there, given my tight schedule (Lol). Instead I sauntered into Papaya Dog, another multi-branch vendor of some mean dogs. The hot dogs were great and really cheap ($2.50 for 2) although I preferred the dog without sauerkraut (fermented diced cabbage that's put on the dogs instead of sauteed onions). Ideally one is supposed to wash down the dogs with papaya juice, but I gave that a miss and had a soda instead.

On a national scale the variety is mind-boggling. Apart from preparation techniques the basic dog itself varies across the board. Skinless, natural casing, collagen casing, kosher, all beef, pork, veal, mixed, etc. Every variety one can think of, is available on the supermarket shelves everywhere. But nowhere is the dog so seamlessly integrated into the fabric of the city, other than in New York.

With a legacy that's over a 100 years old, the New York hot dog still represents a city that's got a lot of character and one heck of a bite !!!

Sheikh Saadi was right!

The aroma of Sambhar, String bean thoran, Fish thoran on rice jolted me out of my daze. Was I dreaming? The plateful of earthy, non-ostentatious assortment that lay before me was lunch, lovingly prepared by Mum. I was going to get a taste of something I had yearned for more than 4 years - simple, home made, Mum-made fare. The fact that I had to travel more than 7500 miles to Philadelphia to enjoy this does not seem important anymore.

3 months ago, this seemed improbable. I was in Mumbai, eating out regularly. The same set of restaurants for lunch and dinner - a different permutation each week. A large workload had all but killed the time to explore some of Mumbai's gastronomic delights. The occasional get-together at a friend's place or a party at another part of town, broke the monotony. Then came the news of my Visa - it had been approved. I could go home.

Home, for many years, was Kolkata - that old city on the banks of the Hooghly in West Bengal. The city where I was baptised in all its gastronomic glory. It was a melting pot of cuisines - Bengali, Mughlai, Chinese, Marwari, Continental - from fine dining to heterogeneous street fare. Then my folks moved to the U.S. My new home. Without a visa, my new home was inaccessible. Mum-made became a distant possibility. Not any more.

I arrived in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, about a month ago and since then its been one big feast - one that's mostly comprised of my favourite dishes and preparations which only Mum could do justice to. Simplicity never tasted so good. She never had to exert too much effort to transform seemingly everyday ordinary fare to explosions of taste. A few masterful touches, a sprinkle there and a dash here and voila, the next taste bomb. Her armoury includes Sambhar ( a South Indian vegetable stew), Kaachiya Mor (spicy buttermilk curry), Meen Curry (a fish curry that has its origins in Central Kerala), assorted thorans (traditional Kerala stir-fry with assorted vegetables) Meen Kootaan ( a fish dish with lots of grated coconut), ultra delicious Chilly Chicken and Fried Rice and a whole lot more. Each one can set off a chain reaction of the senses led by the taste buds !! No restaurant anywhere can match this. I mean it.

The other drastic but oh-so-good change now is that I'm eating breakfast. Skipping breakfast was the norm in Mumbai. Or at the most I'd grab a 'bread-butter sandwich' and a cup of tea at the office canteen. On the weekends that 'bread -butter sandwich' with tea would transform into 'bun-maska' and chai at Goodluck - the neighbourhood Irani joint. It's different now. Steaming hot puttu (cylindrical in shape, its made from moistened rice powder and generous helpings of grated coconut) served with kadala curry (chick-pea curry) or hot idlis with coconut chutney and other such delicious South Indian staples welcome me to the breakfast table each morning.

What the great Persian poet Sheikh Saadi wrote about Kashmir in the medieval period applies to me, here and now:

'If there is a heaven on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.'

Prep Instructions: Remove from freezer. Thaw.

It's time I read the instructions on the pack and follow them to the 't'.

Remove from freezer. Thaw

Thats what I was supposed to do a while back. But unfortunately I put my plans to continue blogging on ice. The reasons are many. Some valid. Mostly farcical. Wasn't able to get enough time to put fingers to keyboard. Was busy tackling life.

But, that didnt stop me from satiating my apetite for good food. In the past year I've wolfed down many portions of some absolutely mindblowing dishes at various restaurants, roadside eateries, hand carts, homes and the occasional wedding. Unfortunately, these mouthwatering wonders did not get featured on this blog due to reasons best not discussed. I've kicked myself enough already.

Well, since things seem to be thawing now, I'll try populating this blog with all things edible.

Bon Appetit !!!

Howrah - Crawford Market (Mumbai)

Having lived in Kolkata (erstwhile Calcutta) all through my childhood and adolescence, I often refer to myself as a Malayalee by birth and a Bengali at heart. That city, which is truly a melting pot of unique culinary styles, is also responsible for my foodie avatar! There is such a variety of tasty delicacies in that city, which I shall reserve for a dedicated post.

Bengali cuisine sits high up on my list of favourite cuisines that I’ve tried. Many years away from the city has only heightened my longing and fondness for its delightful fare. Any mention of a joint serving Bengali food makes me sit up, pay attention and ask for directions!

In Mumbai, so far, I've only heard of two places, popular enough to be widely recommended – Oh! Calcutta and Howrah. The former is on the expensive end of the ‘cuisine-price-index’ while the latter is perched comfortably on the reasonable end.

SD, a foodie friend and I decided to give Howrah a try on a hot Saturday afternoon. Only true-blue foodies could make the effort to travel all the way from Bandra to Crawford Market in sultry conditions for a taste of some awesome fare! Howrah is a collaboration between Retro Foods and Hotel New Bengal, purportedly Mumbai’s oldest Bengali hotel, and is located at Crawford Market with landmarks like the JJ School of Arts and Metro cinema nearby.

I had expected Howrah to be a typical run-down joint that served up authentic cuisine, untouched my modernization and glitz. Well, I discovered that it’s an establishment that’s chosen the Middle Path – just the right mix of heritage and an avant-garde approach. SD had been there before on several occasions but this was my first time and what I saw after climbing a short flight of stairs, impressed me. We walked out onto an outdoor setting very well sheltered from the sun, with numerous British-era ceiling fans airing the placing out. Patrons do have a choice of outdoor seating or air-conditioned environs. We chose the former.

One look at the names of the dishes listed in the menu brought back fond memories of good ‘ol Kolkata. We began with drinks to cool off after the trip and placed orders for Musambi (sweet lime) juice (for SD) and Aam Porar Sherbet (a fantastic coolant – burnt green mango juice laced with roasted and ground coriander, cumin, black pepper, sugar & salt). I just couldn’t get my eyes off the menu – especially the seafood section. One has to first choose the type of fish and then choose the style of preparation. I liked the concept. With a choice of 8 types of fish and 12 styles of preparation the task was daunting. But then we finally settled for Rui Maach (a freshwater fish from the carp family) in Jhol style (light watery curry), Chingri Maach in Malai style (Shrimp in Coconut milk) and Lamb Kosha (semi-dry Bengali lamb).

Among the Indian breads available (Luchi, Paratha and Radhaballabi) we settled for Luchi (deep fried flatbread unique to Bengali and Oriya cuisine). As no Bengali meal would be complete without steamed rice, we called for a portion. The spread looked impressive but we didn’t waste any time admiring it and unleashed ourselves upon it immediately.

The Malai Chingri beat the other dishes hands down. Light, just the right texture and a fantastic after-taste when eaten with the Luchi. Was disappointed with the Lamb Kosha. Although the meat was tender it just wasn’t cooked right – very pedestrian. The Rui Maach also did not meet our expectations. Although the ‘jhol’ was quite delicious the fish pieces were tough – not fresh but the cold-storage variety! The desserts Rossogolla (cottage cheese balls in syrup) and Chenar Payesh (Cottage cheese in milk) made up for the disappointments in the main course, though. To elaborate on Bengali sweets I'll need an entirely new post!

In a restaurant like this one, which serves authentic regional fare I usually expect the waiters to converse in the regional language when prompted. Was a trifle disappointed on this front at Howrah. Maybe I’m being unreasonable. But that’s the essence of ‘experiential cuisine’.

Overall, a satisfying experience – a special mention goes out to the ambiance of the outdoor section.

Restaurant Class: Mid-range

ADDRESS:

Howrah Bengali Restaurant

Hotel New Bengal

Dr. D.N. Road, Crawford Market,

Mumbai - 400001

Tel: 022 2342 4693, 022 2340 1976, 022 3330 3131

Free delivery: Cuffe Parade to Mumbai Central / Byculla.

For delivery beyond Mumbai Central / Byculla, minimum value of order should be Rs. 1000/-

Here’s the best part – Goan food !

Goan cuisine is the sort of cuisine that sounds really exotic but in reality is rooted in local culture. The mouthwatering dishes which we outsiders feel are concocted up to satiate the appetites of tourists are really part of every Goan household – their daily bread, nothing fancy. But for us invaders from the Big City, the fresh catch of crustaceans and fish, the assortment of spices, the marinated meats and local spirits all blend into one heavenly experience.

On a previous visit to Goa, a friend and I had visited North Goa, the more commercialized half of Goa, with beaches crowded with an almost equal measure of white and brown skinned bodies, beach shacks and beach chairs. Grabbed the opportunity to savour some great food at some of the famous joints like Infantaria Bakery (renowned for its breakfast spread – the Chocolate Banana Pancake tops the taste quotient) and Brittos (delicious pastries and desserts – the Alpine Mousse is a must-try). We devoured lots of pastas and a variety of chicken dishes from a whole heap of assorted eateries including several shacks on Baga beach.

This year’s trip with office colleagues for Goafest (20th to 22nd May) was to South Goa, the fairly unadulterated half. We were put up at the 5-star Majorda Beach Resort (South Goa’s 1st 5-star hotel), an impressive property. It had a very earthy feel to it unlike the overtly sanitized environment of new-age 5-star properties.

Between shuttling to and from the fest venue, I did find time to savour some classic local fare. The spread at the venue, though of extremely high quality, felt like regulation Indian wedding fare, especially considering the fact that this was Goa. A couple of colleagues and I headed off to a nearby shack on Cavelossim beach and placed an order for Battered Prawns, Battered Chicken, Deep Fried Calamari, Seafood Spring Roll and Golden Fried King Prawns. I must make a special mention about the Battered Prawns, which were extremely light in texture and the batter did not overpower the taste of the succulent prawns.

The next day we went full steam ahead and sat down for lunch at Raj’s Pentagon, a restaurant about 100 meters from our hotel. I was'nt too kicked about this place as something about it was beginning to put me off. Maybe it was the name (which did not sound local enough) or maybe the tardy service. But as soon as the food started trickling in, I sat back, relaxed. This was going to be good meal! For starters we ordered for Beef Chilly Fry (marinated slices of local beef stir-fired with spices and onions) and Fried Goan Sausages (this delicacy sure needs an acquired taste). The main course consisted of Prawn Curry and Rice. We finished off with out-of-this-world stuffed pancakes – the Pentagon Special Pancake (pancake stuffed with assorted fruits and flambéed), Banana Pancake and Butterscotch ice cream. Sheer delight!

I know that I have only scratched the surface of Goan cuisine. But then again it is this, along with the absolute beauty of this land that will draw me back to this former Portuguese colony again.

Viva Goa !

Pictures courtesy colleagues at Contract, Mumbai.